A taste of Washington and BC kayaking 2013

Living in Whistler in winter means I don’t have much chance for going kayaking. It also means I have more time to edit the videos I took in the past. So I finally managed to complete this “memoir” of an amazing time I had in Washington State and British Columbia in the past year. Seriously, thinking back, I can’t really remember much from when I was 10 years old and I’m counting on these videos to help my memory 20 years from now. My first time in North America was fun and exciting and I’m looking forward to even more of it in the upcoming season.

Thanks to everybody who kayaked with me, especially Max Blackburn, Greg Daspher, Marlow McGregor, Richard Kemble and Cory Boux, who I spent the most time with and who were especially patient putting up with me.

Thanks Palm for your amazing gear and for helping me being able to do what I love doing so much. It won’t be long until I’ll be putting my Stikine Immersion Suit back on again and I’m really looking forward to it!

WATER AND POWER – MY ENCOUNTERS WITH SMALL HYDRO DAMS

Calling European Alps my home left me stunned by the amount of unpopulated nature and free-flowing rivers in British Columbia.  European kayakers can only imagine how much of our good white-water has been lost to the dams.  Yes, I know I use electrical power every day and I’m aware that there’s a need to compromise in contemporary world, but who can blame me for loving the untouched nature? BC still has plenty of it and I feel serenity and amazement every time I find myself far away from anything reminding me of human civilization, except for maybe an old deserted logging road, which often tends to present the only access to the rivers here.

While big dams’ impacts are quite evident, from big populations of people having to be relocated, huge changes to the environment and even effects on climate, there seems to be much less general public concern regarding small dams and diversions. Why should we care about a small creek in a middle of nowhere, right?

 

Hydro dams and diversions do not fit best into the wild environment and they tend to make river sections unrunnable for kayakers. Those are good enough arguments to have me opposing them, but they aren’t the only cons there are. Just from environmental point of view, small dams also fiercely affect fragile river ecosystems and can have devastating effects on fish populations. Most of them being hidden from our sight of view doesn’t change that fact. Read THIS report for a reference of incidents just around Squamish. It is also notable, that many of these projects produce most of their power at a time of spring run-off, time when there is no shortage of power generated by existing facilities. Finding a right balance between satisfying power needs while trying not to leave major ecological impact is challenging enough, but there are some deeper concerns involved with the trends of hydro power plant development, not only in BC, but anywhere in the world.

But let’s go back to a beautiful July morning, when me and a few kayaker buddies decided to go run a small creek named Skookum, located just a few kilometers outside of Squamish. We knew that not too long ago Run of River Power inc., a private energy company, started building a diversion dam far above the classic kayaking section of this very small creek. Having experience with European construction workers and security procedures involving such projects I expected being rejected before even asking about letting us kayak the section, on what would probably be a last attempt before they dam it. Instead we were welcomed by very nice workers, who were all trying to help us get to the river. I remember one of them saying “we are locals too and we are trying to work in the best interest of land and our community.” At the end we didn’t get to kayak, because we couldn’t find a put-in, after the landscape has been changed so much by construction work, that we couldn’t match it to the old river descriptions. It was my only day off for a while so sadly we didn’t make it back before the water level dropped too much.

Interesting is a story of Ashlu creek. Innergex is a company that owns the controversial Ashlu diversion. After strong opposition from kayak community, a compromise agreement has been made, which granted kayakers flow release dates. At the end kayakers were left with even more days with runnable water levels than before. It seems that a great battle has been won and a case example set for better relations between kayakers and any energy corporation.

It almost seems like we should applaud these corporations for their concerns for the local communities and kayakers, but who especially needs applauding are their PR departments. This situation inherently reminds me of how “philanthropic” financial institutions, like Rockefeller foundation, supported anthropological researches to better understand and communicate with indigenous people in faraway lands. Of course the agenda there was to avoid any resistance and to optimize conditions of exploitation of these lands.

After asking what do local communities, local environment and society in general gain with these interventions in nature, it is clear that something smells fishy. Quoting Hydropower Reform Coalition on a case of Washington State, about twice as much energy could be made just by improving efficiency of existing dams, than as building dams on potentially exploitable rivers. Energy corporations’ major argument pro building these is also providing jobs to locals. The fact is that most of workers on these projects aren’t locals and the jobs are available only for a time of construction. I believe that local communities can lose a lot more in long term by scaring their beautiful untouched nature and making it less attractive for tourism. Do locals get cheaper power after construction is done? Who is making profit here? If energy corporations are making profit, they are making it by selling power to faraway lands (because BC has enough power in time of spring run-off LINK and that’s the time when most excess energy is produced by small hydro dams) – and nobody but they seems to be making profit of it. Learning all that makes it clear that somebody did a really good job in “educating” locals, fishermen, environmentalists and us kayakers that in fact we are scoring a good deal.

Should we really let ourselves be silenced for getting some treats? The big question is where does this trend lead to? Maybe today these companies aren’t making much profit of it. But imagine the world decades from now. Who knows what can happen. Northern countries have plenty of water now, but the climate is changing and the glaciers are melting fast. What does privatization of water sources lead to in times when water can’t be taken for granted any more?

I’m happy to see there is more and more concern and awareness about this issue. I love a short educational video Hydro Power Reform has published on vimeo: Small Hydro Power. There has also been a noticeable revolt from the local kayaking community in the Southeast BC, though it has been largely limited to the rivers that are often used for recreational purposes. Cheers especially to the efforts of Steve Arns, Ric Moxon and other local kayakers for their swift and strong opposition to Innergex’s consideration of diverting one of Southeastern BC’s most kayaked and overall most impressive runs around, the Callaghan creek. If they can divert a river with such importance to us, kayakers will be shown to have no real power at all. Join a facebook page Save the Callaghan and educate yourself to help with the cause. The Callaghan race saw the most racers in its 4-year history so far. 52 competitors showed up, not just to compete, but to show tribute to this amazing creek and help support the efforts to leave this creek free-flowing. We can’t do much if we are few, but these numbers and the efforts of some people leave space for optimism.

Soča is amazing in springtime!

 

 

A quick wrap up: I have been in the White Salmon, Washington State, for ten days now and I have yet to see a single cloud. I hit a big jackpot this time. Well, I have been on a roll for quite some time now I guess. I spent a winter in Slovenia, which had one of the longest coldest and snowiest winters in a long time. I spent a lot of the time skiing, but in the end I just couldn’t wait for the kayaking season to start. Prospects were just amazing and when that one rainy and warmer day came in March, the season started big straight away. My first run of the season was the elusive Učja creek, which felt like a gift from above. Ever since then Soča has been running on high flows and I presume it will continue to run high well into June. If you’re around the place, now it is time to go!

I have been so lucky to live in Bovec for the last two years, but it felt like a time for a change. To make it short, me and my girlfriend moved out and we are moving to Squamish for the summer. It has been amazingly hard to move in the middle of the great season, so I really wanted to do as much paddling in Slovenia as possible, before I left. Everyone who has ever done the Soča knows how magical that place can be.  Of course it is a lot more than just a place that I was leaving. All my kayaking buddies and other friends made it that much harder.

Slovenian Times from François Hemidy on Vimeo.

Except for an annual SRT course where I teach, I was lucky to be able to go kayak once or twice almost every day. I am posting some pictures from the last week I spent in that amazing valley. Thanks to Fabian A. Bonnano and Francois Hemidy for the photos. Thanks to Francois for a great video memoir of that week as well. He really caught the atmosphere of it and I’m so happy to have such a good reminder of how things were that perfect springtime. Thanks to all the friends for all great time we spent together. You know who you are.

Now… I guess I really am still on a roll. I’m doing laps on the Little White Salmon and White Salmon rivers and I met so many good people. Thanks especially to Max Blackburn for taking care of me. This place is amazing and really helps me do the transition with a smile on my face.

Photos by Fabian A. Bonanno and Andraž Krpič.

Video by Francois Hemidy.

 

New Dagger Mamba Review and Soča Valley extreme kayaking video

Za slovensko verzijo sledi tej POVEZAVI.

It feels kind of strange writing a kayak review in the middle of a snow-white Bovec, but if there’s a good time to spend it on a computer, it is on lazy winter evenings. I spent most days of 2012 in a kayak, working on the river throughout the summer season and kayaking great whitewater in what turned out to be an epic autumn in Slovenia in terms of water levels.

My 2012 kayaking season has been largely affected by a transition from Pyranha Burn to the new dagger Mamba. I am very picky when it comes to kayaks and I am not easily persuaded. I paddled an old Mamba 8.5 from time to time and I really liked the control it offered on the water. But I never liked how it performed on the rocks. The old Mamba is mainly a river-runner. It is a great learning tool for beginners and a very safe bet for paddlers that don’t like being surprised by the boat. But it just couldn’t compare to the more hybrid-like Burn, when it came to creeking.

That is why I wasn’t instantly persuaded by the idea of switching to the new Mamba, which was presented to me in the springtime – even though it was a new model that needed to be “outed”. When it comes to extreme kayaking, I go for whatever I feel best and safest in, even if it isn’t in the best interest of my sponsors. I am glad that they understand that but in any case I still couldn’t wait to try out the new Mamba. Trying out different kayaks is kind of a hobby for me, as it makes me feel like a little child with a new toy. Most contemporary models come in different sizes as well, which just multiplies the experience.

At that moment Soča valley’s biggest kayak test center, Alpin Action, only had a Mamba 8.1 test boat. But I was quite sure that it was a right size for me, as I normally couldn’t resist the playfulness of smaller models compared to more conservative character of bigger ones. I tested the boat at a fairly low water level at Katarakt section of Soča River, which offers some nice rocky boofs on a mostly “watery” course. Mamba 8.1 surprised me in every way. The first thing I noticed was that the boat lost its ship-like character of being able to go straight without any “urge” for turning until you commanded it to. In fact it felt like a firecracker under my bum. I used to paddle slalom and I love the boats that can spin fast, but this boat exceeded all my expectations. I could hardly keep up to it. I could almost say I got outmanoeuvred by the boat. I wanted to own one, just for the challenge of taming it, but I could only get one boat and 8.1 size felt too small for my 75 kg, for serious extreme kayaking. What mattered to me the most was that its hull was much rounder than that of the old model and it gave me great control on the rocks. I had some problems in the past for not paddling the big enough volume boat in extreme whitewater, but the amazing performance of Mamba 8.1 gave me confidence to do a risky decision. I did something unthinkable for myself and just ordered an 8.6 version without trying it.

My first impression when I was unwrapping the boat was: “oh my god, it’s huge.” I felt a little bit sick, because I was really worried that it was too big for me. I’m only 174 cm high and I had some experience in the past with not being able to properly control the boats that were too big for me. I still think I look a bit funny when I sit in it, but how I feel in it is another tale. For the first few months I used it mostly for work at a very low water Soča. I had been taking photos of rafting and I needed to overtake the rafts a few times on their descent. Mamba felt like it was made for the job as it is fast and offers an amazing amount of space for my camera gear. I also learned it is a little less bouncy as the 8.1 version, which I expected from the bigger size. Nevertheless I was amazed by the fact that, even though it is a super big kayak, I was able to spin it very easily and fully control it. I couldn’t wait to try it on harder water.

In the next few months I got a chance to try it in super big volume, low volume creeks, steep big water situations and so on. To start with the sum up: I love the boat and never felt so secure doing extreme whitewater as I do in Mamba 8.6. When I first tried it in big volume, I was amazed by how on top of everything it felt and by how easily I could change direction, even though it is slightly harder to keep it on a straight track as it is the old Mamba. But unlike the old Mamba, this one can comfortably be used as a creeker: It has a very nicely rounded hull, which I feel confident to take to the steeper rocky rapids. The good features also include stability, easiness to lean it and roll. It is also really easy to boof, while it tends to land soft and accelerate on the landings.

I can’t say I don’t miss a bit of a playful character which smaller boats can offer. I honestly believe that a size gap between 8.1 and 8.6 is too big and I would like something in between to do those play-creeking runs on easier rivers and to also be able to use the same boat in serious conditions. But that would probably be a compromise for me, because there is currently no other boat than Mamba 8.6, that I would rather take to a hard paddling expedition. I can confidently stuff it full of heavy equipment, sit myself in and I can hardly notice any change in the way this kayak handles. Dagger is introducing a new outfitting kit in 2013 and I can hardly wait to try it out – especially those extra inches you can slip under the seat. Great job Dagger!

 

Here’s a video of Extreme kayakin in the Soča valley that I recently made . In the first part of the video I paddle the new Mamba 8.6 at a Katarakt section of Soča River. I believe it is quite evident in the video, that the boats handles like a charm, stays on top of features and accelerates effortlessly.

Season of kayaking in a Spark suit

First of all I owe Palm a big thank you for taking me into the team and helping me survive one more year as a white water kayaker. I have a really hard-work year behind me as I believe I have kayaked on average 1 to 2 times per day every day this year.  Unfortunately mostly for work but still kayaking is a huge part of my life and I could not handle the costs of the gear overuse without the support of Palm and Dagger Europe. I do have to admit that even if I kayak on a certain level, I mostly kayak in a basic level gear, such as Vortex jackets, because they offer me the most freedom of movement and a refreshing feeling of lightness. I really don’t enjoy paddling in thick and heavy gear during the hotter days. Also for this reason, the one piece of gear that I appreciated the most this year was the Spark immersion suit.

Anyone that has tried paddling in a dry suit knows that it is a piece of gear that can replace numerous jackets, neoprene pieces and under layers. Dry suits are easy to dress, comfortable to wear and fast to dry. There are a lot of variations of kayak dry suits out there, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. A spark suit is an extreme case of a lightweight dry suit. The material is a thin 3-layer fabric, which is quite unusual for a dry suit. But the truth is that most of our paddling consists of shorter trips in less than extreme weather conditions. I can imagine that I would prefer a thicker, warmer and more abrasion resistant suit for a multi day trip somewhere cold but for anything other than that I prefer the feeling of freedom. I have never felt anything else but excitement in up to a few hour creeking missions and during the long hours of work and multi times dressing up and undressing the same suit and under layer on the colder and rainy days. And now that the autumn weather hit Europe I simply can’t imagine going paddling with anything else.

Next to the soft fabric the two most notable things about it are the flexible T-zip, which is kind of becoming a standard for all the kayaking dry suits, and its neoprene neck and ankle gaskets (now that it’s colder I prefer the socks version). Especially the neck gaskets seemed to have been accepted with mixed responses. Nobody likes the way latex feels on the neck too much. A big advantage of Spark suit gasket is that it will never stick to your skin, it is not as nearly uncomfortable to dress up and undress as the latex and it will last longer. I also haven’t noticed any difference in how much water leaks through the gasket. There is one problem though. Unlike latex you cannot cut the neoprene gasket and make it fit you. I am fortunate that my Spark fits my neck really well. I prefer it a lot compared to latex but I can imagine a frustration of a big neck kayaker not being able to do anything to make it fit.

To conclude, I can’t recommend the Spark suit enough to an average kayaker. It is an excellent piece of equipment for a great price. As written, that comes with the warning. Try it out first to see if the neck gasket fits you well. If it isn’t too tight you’re free to buy your new favourite piece of gear.

A link to the SPARK IMMERSION SUIT

 

 

 

A lot has happened in the last months so here’s a taste of it: Some photos from the Adidas Sickline race and Učja creek, which is one of the best continuous class 5 (and more) technical creeks you can paddle and it is just 5 min away from my home. Thanks to Tony Demarco and Ryan Vekins for some photos. GoPro photo stream was made at Učja creek.

Here’s also a video of our trip to Switzerland this spring that was made by my friend Andrej Bijuklič . I was testing the Spark for the first time in some of the clips. I haven’t had the Dagger Mamba “speedboat” here yet so you’ll fiond me paddling the blue Burn.