Russian Northern Wave – Tivdia

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Photo: Артур Лепманис

Last weekend I went to the North West of Russia to region called Kareliya, next to border with Finland. One of the best russian playspots is located here in the little rural villige of Tivdia. The region itself is beautiful, few people, untouched nature, clean rivers, lakes, waterfalls, white nights.

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This is last years perfect flow – Tivdia wave at it’s best.
Photo: Mikhail Burov 

Cows and dogs run free in the village, bears and wolfs run free in forests. Locals are friendly and offer you fresh milk, cheese, fish and banya(russian sauna). You can camp free wherever you like or rent a room in local wooden houses for 3-4euro/night. I love this feeling of peace and freedom you get here – far from big roads, cities, internet and shops.  If you want to get some taste of russia but not ready to go deep (all the way to Caucasian mountains, Altai or Baykal regions) this is the place to go – you can even drive on your own car from europe (100km from Finland).

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Photo: Артур Лепманис
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Photo: Геннадий Соколов
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Photo: Артур Лепманис

The wave itself is natural, so water levels are unpredictable, they depend on amount of snowmelt and speed of melting in spring. But for the whole of May and June you’re almost guaranteed to find something to surf.

Sometimes, when all conditions come together it can be an epic green wave with just the right amount of foam on top. There are eddies from both sides as well, to use right one you need a rope.

Russian freestylers come hunting the water every year, coming from 1st May till end of June on weekends and for a few weeks from all of western Russia (Moscow is 1100km away) and even further. For the last 2 years kayakers from Finland have been coming too.

This time the level was a little bit lower then perfect, but still  provided a  decent wave! The weather made up for the water. It was sunny 19 hours a day and in other 5 hours it was a beautiful sunset/sunrise (you get white nights here so sun never goes completely).

Foam pile was big, so you could do some hole moves. But wave tricks still worked. High speed and occasional pulse keep you on edge.

Competition this year was very interesting, i can proudly say – level of russian paddlers rising with each season. Organisers did a very good job providing very pleasant atmosphere, live music (band came and played for us in the middle of nowhere), a few less serious disciplines and party competitions, no entry fee and even prize money – first time as far as i remember russian freestyle competitions!

In fact organisation was so good, they were running earlier for the womens finals  and i almost missed my rides as i was still changing :) as a result finished only 3rd after winning prelims. Will be smarter next time.

I very recommend this event for European paddlers to visit. You will see the other world, different parties, experience russian banya, food&nature, and of course  people and relationships here not like in Europe too. Cheap flights now going to St. Petersburg (500km away) or Moscow, where you can jump in someones kayak bus or car. I will answer your questions about visa, it’s easy enough.

I am very thankful for everyone this year for a very warm hearted experience at Tivdia, and for all friends who provided photos. More detailed photo report you can find here http://www.kayaknroll.ru/news/tivdiya-fristajl-2013-fotoreportazh-s-mesta-sobytij/#more-11678

and here

http://ergin.ru/blog/tivdiya-chempionat-rossii-po-fristaylu-na-burnoy-vode-tivdia-freestyle-2013-16-05-18-05-2012-ot-aviatora-do-nyitika.htm

At the moment I am finished with all my selection events and going deep in to training for the Worlds with intention to participate in as many competition before US as possible.

Katya

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Photo: Mikhail Burov
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Photo: Mikhail Burov
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Photo: Геннадий Соколов
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Photo: Геннадий Соколов
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Photo: Геннадий Соколов
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Photo: Grigory Ergin
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Photo: Артур Лепманис
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Photo: Mikhail Burov
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Photo: Mikhail Burov
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Photo: Mikhail Burov
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Photo: Геннадий Соколов
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Photo: Геннадий Соколов
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Photo: Геннадий Соколов
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Ancient Russian device for boiling water. Called Samovar, still very useful in 21st Century
Photo: Mikhail Burov
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Photo: Mikhail Burov

Katya at King of Asia Race – Altay Mountains, Russia

King of Asia Race, Russia, Chuya river.

It was very interesting experience to be back in place which i used to call “my home”. I haven’t visit Altay for 3 years, and didn’t paddle this Rivers for 4 years. But time from 2004-2007, my first four summers in kayak i spend here, paddling every day and sleep under open sky every night, and every autumn it was painful to leave. My life changed a lot since this time in all directions: my mind, my friends, my location (which is in constant change), my kayaking, my dreams and i think i even look different now. It was a bit of surprise, what things here stayed the same, and local paddlers live same lifestyle as 4-5 year ago.

However there is one noticeable improvement – amount of kayakers paddling here went from 5-6 to 30-40! This competition organised for the second time and looks like it growing big! Kayak culture rooted here and region drown more and more attention for the paddlers from western lands. As soon as i realise i’ll be visiting my parents around this time i decide to come and support my old friends effort by participating in Race.

We arrived on Friday – first day of competition. 12 hours drive for here is no big deal, and we took boats and climbed up to put in for Chinese Race. It was a mass start with over 20 people. I paddled careful as i didn’t remember the lines perfectly and missed one night sleep on a way here. Surprisingly run went smooth and i got 11 from 22 people, leaving all other 5 girls far behind.

Evening i spend so good, what next day i felt a bit uncoordinated on a water. First part went good, but i last rapid , i guess i suddenly missed freestyle, so my unconscious desires led me to the hole, and then to another one. Safety guys enjoyed my beating and laughed hard. I lost quit a bit of time, but paddled hard on last km. My time was 6 min 3 sec and i finished 3d, missing first place by 15 sec and second by 0.5 sec! I hoped it will be final next day, but girls decide to cancel it, because some of them was too scared. This rapids a pretty powerful, so i was impressed to see 6 ladies racing!

Mans final was on most difficult part of the gorge, best 10 all successfully made it to the bottom. First place was not a surprise – Egor Voskoboynikov (winner of all Russian races) after big party and late night sleep won again. Vasiliy Porsev – main organiser of everything to do with Altay kayaking – got in to a hole, so finished only 3rd.

All competition going on in deep gorge, its not what great for spectators, but very intense for competitors, even there are safety after every rapid you still feel lost and alone. I was taking picture in canyon, so got to run last bit one more time. Paddle down without racing was great and i got clean lines, regained confidence shaken yesterday.

Awards ceremony was straight after. Prizes was pretty good, that is one bit i especially like about Russian competitions. I very hope plans about damming this river will not work out and next year and many years after kayakers will paddle and helicopters will fly high filming our finals of King of Asia race..

I love this Rivers and beauty of nature here, i feel safe and at home. Connection to this land is unbreakable like with mother. Even you not live together anymore and visit rarely u promise to come back. I will definitely come back here and introduce it to my new friends. I am proud to be from those lands.

Katya Kulkova

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