Rutting Stags on Rannoch Moor

Any one that knows me will tell you that Rannoch Moor has to be one of my favorite remote/wilderness spots for a paddling adventures in Scotland. I have completed the cross Scotland trip starting at Kinloch Leven and finishing at Perth a number of times and never tire of it, but I had not completed the trip via the the smaller Lochs Ba and Laidon. So inspired by Justine Curgenven’s recent DVD release, “This is Canoeing” I decided to go and investigate the area in preparation for a future trip.

Rannoch Moor lies in the Scottish Highlands and can be accessed via the A82 as it winds its way from Glasgow, through Crianlarich  onto Glencoe then  on to the west coast and Fort William. Due to its height above sea level, its location in relation to the west coast and its weather, expect the climate to be unsettled, often bringing snow, sleet and heavy rain throughout the year. This trip would prove to be no exception!

As I was heading over to Ballachulish for the night and looking forward to the prospect of visiting the Clachaig Inn for a pint of Guinness, I thought I would check out the start point for my planned trip. My start point, Loch Ba is said to be one of Britain’s most remote and windswept points, as the A82 crosses over to Glencoe, and at a height of 1142 ft above sea level. The surrounding area is covered with numerous lochans, streams, peat bogs and mountains that rise on all sides to over 600m and in some cases alot higher.

On arriving at Loch Ba I felt a little deflated as I became aware of some quite serious looking roadworks going on right were I had intended launching! Not to be deterred I headed back from where I had just driven a short distance and in actual fact found a better launch spot with good parking on the opposite side of the road at Lochan Na Achlaise. Winner! The weather was cracking, the views were stunning and I was looking forward to my forthcoming adventure.

The morning after my recce and visit to the Clachaig Inn dawned a little different to the previous day! It was poring with rain and blowing a gale, and this was at sea level. Not to miss the opportunity I ventured out and drove back up the Glencoe Pass to my start point.

My plan now was to head out of Loch Na Achalaise via a tributary that fed into Loch Ba. Then to paddle its length and again pick a tributary this time leading into Loch Laidon, then continuing on to Rannoch Station, an over night bivy and reverse the route back to where I had started. Easy!! Or not as the case may be.

As I unloaded my boat and kit in the wind and rain, a figure emerged from a rather steamed up 4×4. This turned out to be a guy visiting from Norway and in some broken English asked me as to my intentions. At this point he looked somewhat shocked, wished me luck and diapered back to the steamy 4×4.

As I unloaded and launched my boat etc I became aware of a very strange noise coming from the mist. After having heard it several times it dawned on me as to what it was, a roaring Stag! At this time of year the Stags are in their rutting season and competing for the females (Hind). This roaring is a very distinct if not unnerving sound especially when it is coming out of the mist and you cant actually see whats making it. The Stags roar in order to maintain control over a group of females and to constantly drive away rival males. I was now hoping I might catch a glimpse of one of theses magnificent beasts roaring. Bit difficult in a bright yellow cag though!

The weather was definitely getting worse, and I was beginning to think that maybe I wouldn’t make my goal and more to the point was this such a good idea? After a brief chat with my self I decided to continue and seek shelter under a small bridge over which the A82 ran and have some lunch. This comprised of some brown biscuits and vegetable spread followed by some fruit biscuits and chocolate all left over from a military ration pack I had recently used for some work.

After my brief lunch it was time to move on, however as you can see from the picture my path was blocked largely due to a lack of water. My only option now being some form of portage. The ground was to too soft and boggy for a trolley, plus I’m not really a big fan of them. Carrying my boat on my shoulders with the aid of the Yoke was also not an option due to the soft uneven ground. This left me with the only option. Dragging! So I rigged a quick harness system and used the two half’s of my canoe pole like ski poles and set off looking something like a Polar explorer man-hauling a pulk. It wasn’t really possible to carry kit and drag my boat so I decided to carry my kit a short distance first and whilst doing so I could identify a suitable route to drag my boat along. Once my kit was dumped I could return unloaded and collect my boat. I use a similar routine when carrying my boat and adopt a preference for quite short legs or stages as I go. A stage was a convenient stopping place used by Voyageurs at which loads were dumped, and they were generally around six minutes apart. This being the length of time a man could walk with a good load without fatigue. The idea is that he would recuperate on the way back for the next load. It was taken from the  native Indian system  of packing allowing better time to be made.

I eventually arrived at the start of Loch Ba and wasted no time continuing on my trip. However as I was about to get into my boat I noticed something moving in the grass. On closer inspection I discovered I had a friend in the form of a small frog!

Loch Ba is approximately 2.5 long and eventually leads into the River Ba which flows into Loch Laidon. It was around this point that the weather calmed down for a while and I was again aware of that haunting sound of the roaring Stags. I decided that as the noise seemed close I would investigate further and see if I could locate the Stag and possibly get a picture. I set off and sure enough during a brief break in the mist, a large stag in all its glory appeared about 150m in front of me, with another one on top of a rise some distance way. Between them was a group of 5 or 6 females (Hinds). I decided to try my luck and get closer, but as I have already said being in a bright yellow cag probably wasn’t the best idea. As I got closer and with one last roar the closest Stag took flight and disappeared with his hareem. I quickly grabbed the chance of a picture. Its not the best but here it is.

After another couple of km dragging, carrying, poling, lining and paddling I entered Loach Laidon. This now felt very remote and wild and despite the weather the scene was stunning, I had a real sense of  pleasure getting here. As if by magic a Royal Navy search and rescue helicopter appeared very low but above me. It was so low infact I could clearly see the pilots face. I guess they were just wondering what or who was up there dragging a canoe around in this weather. The side door slid open and the winch-man appeared signaling to me an OK sign with his thumb. I returned the gesture with both thumbs and with he a big smile on his face he returned in side, closed the door and as quickly as it had appeared it disappeared. A quite surreal experience!!

Unfortunately at this point my camera gave up the will to live! So no more pictures. I was now quite aware of time and the weather, as I had pretty much had the wind behind me all day aiding my progress. I was now just over half way down Loch Laidon and the weather was definitely worsening. If I cut my journey short now and started heading back I would probably make it back to the car that night. If I pushed on to the end of the Loch I couldn’t guarantee finding a suitable bivy spot, and if the weather deteriorated yet further over night then I couldn’t be sure I would get back.

Decision made I turned around and headed back. Batting into the wind was no pleasure I can promise you. By the time I reached the car the light was fading and I was tired but happy.

I now had a good idea of what would be involved when I attempt a crossing from here later next year. Another thought is to start down near Oban, up Loch Etive and then portage Glen Etive  via road and tracks to reach Loch Ba and then continue the crossing via Loch’s Rannoch and Tummel etc. Either way it will make for an interesting tale.

Rannoch Moor really is a special place and I would encourage you to go and paddle it for your self. Remember though it is a serious trip and a remote environment so make sure you are well prepared for the weather you may encounter and carry the right safety kit.

Meanwhile I’m busy planning a winter trip starting at Mallaig journeying to Loch Arkaig and on to Fort William or even Ballachulish.

See you on the water….

Jules

www.voyageur-coaching.co.uk