With the expedition drawing to a close our last week has been packed with boating (and therefore driving, red tape, police check points, bribes, homestays, U-Turns etc). Got to make the most of it though while we’re out here.
Ben making it through another steep rapid on the Iskanderkul
Dave on the Varzob
The rivers are still on the high side, and with Danny and Hugh back in the UK its left Ben and myself footing the bill for the miles we’re clocking up.
Half way down a long long rapid - knackering work!
Its been worth it though, and we’ve managed to enjoy some cracking runs of the Fondarya, Zerafshon, Iskanderkul, Varzob. All boasting unique geology and a whole range of types of boating.
More amazing scenes on the Iskanderkul
We’ve also managed to hook up with some more British boaters (Tom Parker, Dave Hollins, Rich Brooks) for a days boating, and some force feeding of Vodka by some Russians!
Tom Parker on the Karatog...
...a river that wasn't without its portages!
All in all, Tajikistan will work you hard but reward you well.
We’ve had some successes and some disappointments but its all worthwhile in a destination which provides some interesting cultural experiences, spectacular scenery, and of course, quality boating.
Big big thanks go to our translator, Umed. Arguably the best Tajik boater in the world right now. The expedition would not have been as successful without your help.
Cheers
Dave Burne
(written on expedition, uploaded post expedition. Less time on the internet means more time on the water!)
Ben at the top of another long rapid - Iskanderkul
I recently teamed up with close friend Jared Meehan and headed to The Aratiatia Rapids on the Waikato River where we met up with world renowned photographer Craig Potton. Craig was busy filming a documentary series highlighting New Zealand’s great rivers and we gave him an insight into the importance of Rivers to kayakers.
“As a mountainous island chain, in a boisterous corner of the world’s largest ocean, New Zealand’s rainfall can be massive – our rivers turbulent and unpredictable. Internationally renowned photographer and conservationist, Craig Potton has spent 40 years photographing our landscapes. Making art out of our forests, our coastlines and most of all, out of our rivers. For Craig, rivers are the arteries that bind the land together. In this stunning new PRIME documentary series, Craig travels five of our most significant waterways – the Clutha, the Waikato, the Mokihinui, the Clarence and the Rangitata – each one with its own story.
During each journey, Craig discovers the creatures which live in and around our rivers – from threatened native fish swimming under the streets of Hamilton – to giant carnivorous land snails and the world’s only crooked beaked bird. He meets the people who care for rivers and live or work alongside them. He journeys between source and sea and tries to understand how rivers have shaped the land and influenced our culture. Maori have a unique and defining relationship with their awa (rivers), and our artists, writers and filmmakers have all been greatly inspired by the nation’s waterways.
Our rivers tell us much about the progress and evolution of our country, luring generations seeking to make their fortune from greenstone and gold, hydro-power, wine and tourism. From boat to bicycle, raft to river-powered punt, swimming to sweeping helicopter flights, Craig takes his own personal journey through some of the wildest, most spectacular landscapes on earth. He meets some remarkable people and through them discovers the stories – personal, historical, contemporary, political, cultural and mystical – that flow through our rivers.”
Well Spring in NZ has officially sprung and has brought with it rain, and lots of it! This is great news for Ducks and Kayakers alike! I shot out last week for a run on the Tuakopai River, in the Kamai Ranges in NZ’s North Island. This creek truly is a kayakers version of a skate park – awesome fun!
It has been brought to our attention that counterfeit Palm products are appearing on internet auction sites. We would like to confirm that these items are substandard copies, made with inferior materials and components.
They will not perform to the high standard of genuine Palm Equipment products and are not tested or approved to European Certification.
Palm does not condone or endorse the selling of these counterfeit products.
We would like to reassure our customers that we are doing everything we can to shut down these unlawful sellers.
So the Yagnob was our plan. Expected time, 5 days. Drive as far as you can up a 4×4 road, get to a village, and walk the rest.
Up the valley to the bottom of the pass
Unfortunately that ‘walk the rest’ part meant 25km up over a 3300m pass. Boats, gear, camping equipment, food, the lot…
Time to barter for a donkey.
Starting the Stroll
It turns out in Tajikistan its cheaper to buy a donkey than to hire a donkey. Each with a leg of a donkey (called Shakira) to our name, the four of us set off on the hike. Turns out its not easy to lead a stubborn cheap donkey…
Shakira doin her thang
Its a long way up!
2 gruelling days later and we made it to the riverside.
The calm before the storm
5km downstream we had our first surprise. A 6km long gorge with a massive entry rapid not portageable at river level greeted us. More walking – not what we needed!
Back down at river level we paddled the rest of the spectacular gorge in the sunshine.
Yet another portage
5km downstream of this we had another surprise. Another gorge with a runnable entry but unrunnable exit. This wasn’t supposed to happen!
It was what we all feared – the river was too high!
Big portages interspersed with a few nice rapids
After a couple of days of long scouts, long portages interspersed with some good paddling we saw our first signs of civilization. Our Phrase book wasn’t much use since they speak an ancient 8th Century language in this valley, however we managed to get a room and some local food for the night.
It was here that Hugh twisted and severely sprained his ankle. After a lot of use of the Sat phone, debate, broken conversation and scouring over maps, Hugh prepared for a long uncomfortable donkey trek to the nearest road.
Only a Sprain?
Donkey to the rescue
On the river we were down to 3, but the river gods seemed to throw and apology in our direction. The sun came out and the levels seemed to drop slightly. Everything cleaned up and became runnable with some spectacular scenery.
The next few days were bliss…for those of us on the water.
Beautiful weather..
..Amazing scenery
and some tasty rapids to compliment!
Danny and Hugh are heading home soon so we’re trying to cram some roadside boating in for the next few days, where we know that the river levels are up to!
An audience on the Fandraya
The steep sides of the Zerafshan
Follow the leader...if the river will let you...
Dave Burne
(written on expedition, uploaded post expedition. Less time on the internet means more time on the water!)
This is another tale from my recent trip to Scotland.
After an overnight drive I arrived in Kinloch Rannoch at around 3 am and knowing the forecast for the day was good decided to snatch an hour or so sleep before setting off on my trip. A short time later I awoke as the sun broke through, and I was greeted with the stunning early morning view of Loch Rannoch.
Not wanting to miss the opportunity of a day of solitude and paddling on my own, I quickly unloaded my boat, kitted up and was on the water leaving the sheltered beach behind me by 6 am.
Early morning over Loch Rannoch looking back towards Kinloch Rannoch
From the same place but this time looking North. Stunning!
Does what it says on the tin!
The area around Rannoch Moor and Loch Rannoch has to be one of my favourites, so much so that I named my dog Rannoch!
Loch Rannoch its self lies to the East of Rannoch Moor and North of Sterling in the North of Scotland. It is easily accessed from Pitlochry on the A9, which is one of the major road routes through Scotland. It is part of a classic and very committing cross Scotland trip, which starts at Kin Loch Leven south of Fort William and ends over in Perth on the East coast. The Loch it’s self is around 15 km long with lots of opportunities for stopping and wild camps. Due to the mountainous terrain, and the surrounding wooded areas it almost has that Canadian feel about it.
The view from my start point on the beach looking North
My aim had been to complete a short section of this route, by paddling the length/around Loch Rannoch, portage into Dunalastair Water then down the River Tummel through Loch Tummel and finish up somewhere around Pitlochry.
In keeping with the ways of the Voyageurs I had opted for a “Hudsons Bay Start.” This was basically a practice run for the Voyageurs to make sure that they had the right equipment and that things worked as they should before heading off into the wilderness. It involved a short first day, setting up camp early and not too far from home incase there were any issues that needed them to return home to be dealt with.
A rather low River Tummel
However as they say “All good plans fail at their first contact with the enemy!” and mine certainly did, as the water in the River Tummel was very low. I decided this probably wouldn’t make for enjoyable trip, and so opted to circumnavigate the loch, portage into Dunalastair Water and spend some time exploring it.
My trusty steed, loaded and ready
So shortly after 6 am with my trusted steed loaded and ready, I set off. I chose my Mad River Legend, not the best choice for an open water trip as it is more suited to moving water. However as I only had the room for one boat on this trip, and as my plans for later that week included paddling some rivers then it made sense to take it.
Headed North
The first of my stops
One of the many sheltered bays, ideal for a wild camp
As those who know me will tell you, I am some what of a self confessed Bushcraft geek and love foraging around for things I can use during trips. This little adventure was to be no different. In this instance during a stop it was an acompliment of Bilberries to add to my planed breakfast of porridge and some Birch bark to help light my fire and Kelly Kettle. Bilberries are basically a smaller and tastier European variety of the Blueberry, and in Scotland are known as Blaeberries. I will talk more about Kelly Kettles in a future blog with tips on using them.
Bilberry or Blaeberry?
A good collection of Bilberries destined for my porridge
Breakfast with a view
Looking across the Loch
Heading back down the Loch towards Kinloch Rannoch
Fed and watered I continued on my way and by late afternoon I had completed a full circuit of the Loch. The weather was great and the scenery stunning. After another of many short stops I portaged into Dunalastair Water and found a bivy spot for the night.
Evening meal on the go
Next morning I was again up early and explored the area before finally heading back to my original start point. I can thoroughly recommend the area and the trip. The opportunities for wild camping are plenty and there are numerous options to either extend the trip or to include it as part of longer trip.
I hope you have found this interesting and may be it will inspire some of you to have some canoe ventures of your own.
This weekend the Song of the Paddle canoe forum held there first Big Meet on Ullswater in the Lake District. Palm went along with the Mad River Canoes demo fleet to support the event.
The Lake District is one of the only places where is can be sunny and rain at the same time and the wind caused a few challenges.
About 150 canoiests made there way to the event which had a very sociable feel and I met some really lovely people who all imparted a little knowledge my way.
Being in my infancy of converting to a canoeist having kayaked since a young age, this event help me to learn from the forum members and experts more about this aspect of paddlesport. I now know how to lace and lash and the reasons why, my first attempt had a little scrutinising!
Below a rarely seen photo of me, I managed to get out for a paddle with my young daughter, Alexa Grace (23 months)
Thanks to everyone and hope to meet you all again soon!
Me and Hugh are back in the UK now, enjoying all that is English and preparing for the cold winter ahead…
It was a joy paddling in Norway this summer – my first season out there and one to remember for sure. This is the final instalment of the imaginatively named, ‘Finn and Hugh’s Norway Adventure’, and I have to say that I feel rather Nostalgic already. We spent our last week in Norway in Voss paddling the Raundal lower canyon, which turned out to be one of the best runs of the trip (save The Megatron), unfortunately we didn’t get any footage of it as canyons are actually quite hard to film in…
However, we did film a cheeky play session on speed camera hole in central Voss and a wonderful afternoon on the Bygdelva play run in Hellesylt… a nice way to end a great trip.
Without further ado, the video:
Thanks to Hugh for the great edit, Enjoy!
Stay Tuned for some English Winter Adventures, with Finn and Hugh.
Hi Guys,
I just uploaded a little video diary that I took during a month paddling in Iceland. A little insight into life on the road!
Cheers,
Ben: http://benbrown.co.nz
